Are you considered making home improvements  such as a new kitchen, bathroom or remodeling? You can probably think of a thousand ways your home could be more comfortable, more practical or more modern. Sure, you could move. But you love the neighbourhood, and you also love your house.

Often, the really smart option is a home renovation. Without the cost of moving, home decorating and improvements can give your home additional value. If you are concerned about financing options, a home improvement line of credit may be a great option.

This is an excellent way to repair, and make improvements to your home, and make the most of life’s other opportunities.

A Line of Credit gives you three big advantages when renovating–

1. You access the funds as you need them. You can use your Line of Credit as the renovations progress to pay different tradespeople and suppliers at different times. You won’t be paying interest on credit that you haven’t used.

    

2. You can open a Line of Credit without knowing exactly how much your renovations will cost when they’re finished. Simply apply for a credit limit that will give you a comfortable margin, and then use only what you need.

    

3. You can use the equity you have in your home to get rates as low as prime, higher credit limits up to 75% of the appraised value of your home less any outstanding mortgages or charges, and the added flexibility of interest-only payments. Most Canadian banks also offer you the ability to access up to 90% of the appraised value or purchase price (whichever is lower) of your home should you qualify.

Before you can find the cheapest home improvement loans, though, you need to know a little bit about what youre looking for and what lenders are looking at.

Factors that affect your loan

You may have to visit several different lenders to find the cheapest home improvement loans, but every one that you go to will be taking several things into consideration when creating a quote for you.

The first thing that theyll look at is the equity in your home, which is an indication of how much of the mortgage on the home has been paid off. The equity in your home is one of the major factors in determining the maximum amount that a lender is willing to loan you, since it is an indication of how much money theyd get back if they had to repossess the home. Usually, the cheapest home improvement loans are offered to people who have high equity in their homes.

Of course, there are other factors to be considered as well things such as your credit score, the type of improvements or repairs that youre wanting to do, and national and local interest rates can all be major considerations when a lender is trying to determine if you qualify for the cheapest home improvement loans.

What to look for in a loan

Even if the first quote that you receive seems pretty good, you should take some time to see if there are any other options available in order to get the absolute cheapest home improvement loans that you can.

Visit several banks and finance companies and request quotes from each of them you may find that the interest rates and terms that youre offered differ at least slightly from institution to institution.

Carefully look at all of the quotes that youve received, trying to find the one with the lowest interest rate that still has flexible repayment terms. Narrow your options down to only two or three quotes, and decide from there which of the offers has the best options for your needs.

While it may seem like more work than its worth sometimes, taking your time to find the cheapest home improvement loans to finance your repair or improvement project can save you both time and money in the long run.

The extra time that you spend now will likely result in you repaying the loan faster and having more free time and money afterwards.

Home Improvement Loans

The Toronto Fall Home Show has found a new home. They have moving to the Better Living Centre, Exhibition Place. The highly anticipated move was in response to renovations at the Automotive Building. The timing could not have been better and the response to the success of the Fall Home Show over the years has led to our growth.

Mark your calendars: The Fall Home Show runs September 18^th – 21^st, 2008.

Our commitment to continuously strive to provide the highest level of quality in our shows made the move imminent. Look for more exciting details about expert appearances on our Entertaining Stage, one-on-one advice and take aways in our Workshop series, our Dream Spaces, e-boutique,  Destination Renovation presented by BILD, Design Talks! presented by Reno & Decor Magazine and don’t forget about all the shopping – with over 290 retailers to buy from.

Renovate, Decorate and Celebrate with the Fall Home Show!

The Fall Home Show Team

For more information about exhibiting at our show please visit the Looking to Exhibit section on the website.

Buy your tickets online or at the event. Ticket Prices for the Fall 2008 Toronto Home Show are as follows:

• Adults: $12.00
• Senior: $10.00
• Junior 12-18: $10.00
• Children Under 12: Free

]]> http://www.mytorontohomeimprovement.com/80.htm/feed http://www.mytorontohomeimprovement.com/four-tips-to-save-home-energy.htm http://www.mytorontohomeimprovement.com/four-tips-to-save-home-energy.htm#comments Mon, 08 Sep 2008 01:13:57 +0000 admin http://www.mytorontohomeimprovement.com/four-tips-to-save-home-energy.htm

Many Canadians spent the summer struggling to fill their tanks as the price of gas topped $1.50 / liter. Added to that worry this winter will be the increasing cost of home heating.

It is estimated that Canadians will spend 19.8% more on energy this year than they did last year. Given that the average household expenditure last winter was $986, that could mean shelling out almost $1,200 this year on various energy expenses, about half of which go to heating and cooling your home, according to Maria Vargas, spokeswoman for the Environmental Protection Agency’s Energy Star program.

YOUR HOME: See room-by-room energy tips

GOING GREEN: Find your eco-score, latest environmental news

The good news, says Terry Townsend, former president of the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers, is that people don’t necessarily have to change how they live to save money on heating costs. They just have to change the way they use energy.

September would be a good time to get your heating system checked and cleaned if necessary, Townsend says. As temperatures drop, service technicians will be in demand, and it may take a while to get repairs done, he says. Plus, heating and cooling systems should be checked about once a year to keep them working as efficiently as possible.

You might also consider getting your home examined for maximum energy efficiency. In May, the United States began offering free energy audits to District residents to identify deficiencies and offer cost-effective recommendations for improvement. More than 800 audits have been done, says energy program specialist LaKeisha Estep.

Although Estep says D.C. is the only city to provide free audits to all residents, Townsend says local power distributors might be able to perform a similar service. Identifying the deficiencies and fixing them can save you up to 30% on energy costs, he says.

Here are some energy-saving steps:

Is your house well-sealed?

The total energy that escapes from your house through leaks each year adds up to about the same as “leaving a window open all year round,” Vargas says.

Townsend recommends caulking — using flexible compounds to seal leaks — around windows, and weather stripping all exterior doors to keep hot air from escaping.

Check the ducts around your house, too — you can lose as much as 15% of air through leaks if your ducts aren’t tight, Townsend says.

Insulate, insulate, insulate

Your local utility will be able to tell you how much insulation you should have, Townsend says, and proper insulation will help keep the air your heating system produces warm. A word of caution: Make sure you aren’t adding a moisture-trapping vapor barrier to one already in the existing insulation. That could trap the moisture that has slipped by the first barrier and get the insulation damp, he says. Also consider insulating your hot water tank and at least the first 6 feet of piping with jackets available at hardware stores.

Control the temperature

Vargas says one of the most important things a consumer can do is purchase a programmable thermostat. Most cost $30 to $100 at hardware stores and can save you about $180 a year in energy costs, she says. You can program these thermostats to turn down the heat when nobody is in the house. Visit Energy Star’s website (energystar.gov) to see which type of thermostat fits your needs and for sample programming schedules.

Also consider investing in a humidifier if you live in a cold and dry place, Townsend says. Moist 68-degree air feels a lot warmer than dry 72-degree air and allows you to keep the thermostat lower.

Update your appliances

Fifteen to 17 years is the average life span for most equipment, Townsend says. After that, maintenance costs start going up, and you’re better off investing in newer, better equipment. Vargas says Energy Star reviews and labels more than 50 kinds of products, ranging from light bulbs to major appliances, to guide consumers to products that are the most energy-efficient, high-performing and cost-effective.

Townsend says homeowners who want to help the environment and are willing to spend more cash could invest in a solar domestic water heating system. Although you’ll need a backup water heater for cloudy days or an inadequate storage tank, you can heat a large percentage of your water that way.

Home Improvement Toronto

Feel at home with an environmentally friendly drivewayNext time it rains, look out your window and watch the water and contaminates from the road slosh into the sewers and contaminate our water supply.

“Green pavement,” a relatively new concept in green building, is a permeable and porous pavement that absorbs rainwater instead of repelling it. It combines the load-carrying capacity we expect of paved areas with the water-infiltration qualities of natural ground cover.

Here’s a look at how this environmentally friendly setup works.

There are three types of permeable pavements:

1. Plastic pavers: A plastic honeycomb grid in which grass or other vegetation can grow

2. Concrete pavers: Concrete blocks withspaces in betweenthem for better drainage.

3. Asphalt/concrete: Fine particles are left out of it to make it more porous.

Common uses forpermeable pavement:

- Driveways

- Emergency access lanes

- Public parks

- Alleys

- Parking lots

- Bike or walking paths.

DID YOU KNOW?

Green pavement is strong enough to hold a helicopter:A 100-sq/m area of lawn at Buckingham Palace was replace with a turf system for a helicopter landing pad. Helicopters, which had been previously landing on the lawn, were causing coinsiderable damage to the area which required constant repair.

PROS OF GREEN PAVEMENT

- Green pavement is permeable and porous — absorbs water instead of repelling it.

- Water is returned to the ground instead of being washed into the sewers.

- Many green pavement products are made from recycled materials.

- Can eliminate the need for gutters and storm sewers.

- Doesn’t ice up as quickly in the winter as water does not pool on the surface.

CONS OF GREEN PAVEMENT

- Pavers can be a problem for snowplows. Plow blade can catch on corner of pavers and rip it up.

- Prone to clogging.

- Porous pavement is more expensive that traditional pavement.

- Sand and other fine sediment can block the spaces between pavers. Sanding in the winter can contribute to clogging.

- Not for use on highways or airports where there is a lot of heavy braking.

TRADITIONAL PAVEMENT

Runoff: (Water from the roads that runs into the sewers)

- Contributes to flooding, erosion, contamination of water supplies

- It can contain oil, grease, pesticides from turf management, road salts, and toxic chemicals from automobiles

- Runoff occurs because traditional pavement is nonporous — meaning it doesn’t allow rainwater to settle back into the ground

PERMEABLE PAVEMENT

Water percolates, as in a coffee pot, when it seeps through the pavement to a cleansing layer of gravel. The gravel or stone acts as a natural filter, clearing the water of pollutants.

Home Improvement Toronto

Q: My roof is leaking. Does this mean I need a new one?

A:

Not necessarily. You may only need repair work. The best way to determine the problem is to call in a professional roofing company for an evaluation. They’ll advise you on the most viable and cost-effective course of action.

Signs of problems are most likely in roofs that are fifteen years or older.

Look for:

• loose or missing shingles
• damaged flashing - pieces of metal or roll roofing wrapped around vent pipes, chimneys and adjoining walls to prevent water seepage and leakage
• buckling and curling - shingles that are bent up in the middle or turned up at the corners
• blistering and rotting - bubbles, caused by moisture in the shingle, appear on the surface of asphalt roofing

These problems can usually be fixed without replacing the roof. The key is to find them early and have a qualified roofer deal with them immediately.

Ask friends, family and neighbours for recommendations. Contact the Toronto Construction Association, The Greater Toronto Home Builders Association, Better Business Bureau, Scarborough Chamber of Commerce, Registry of Proffesional Contractors of Ontario, and BILD.

You want to establish the contractor’s professionalism and high standards of quality.

• Does your contractor carry workman’s compensation, liability protection and insurance against damage to you or your neighbour’s property?
• How long has your contractor been in business?
• Does the company have a solid reputation for excellence?
• Will your contractor guarantee job satisfaction? Ask for references.
• Does your contractor use only first quality materials?
• Are your contractor’s staff trained, licensed roofing professionals?
• Will your contractor give you written warranties for labour and materials?
• Will your contractor stand behind the work after the project is completed?
• Can you reach your contractor 24 hours a day, 7 days a week?

Q: What should I know when choosing shingles?

A:

There are three basic types of shingles.

• Asphalt Composition tiles are the most popular because they are relatively inexpensive and easy to install. Most home owners choose asphalt shingle, as its life expectancy is 20+ years.
• Premium asphalt shingles provide a more distinctive appearance and carry a longer manufacturer’s warranty. They come in many unique styles which are more attractive, but also more expensive, than the basic asphalt tile.
• Cedar shingles and shakes are listed in the Green Consumers Guide as being completely renewable. They are very attractive; however, their higher cost makes them a less popular choice.

Q: Once the job starts, how can I monitor its progress?

A:

Check that the terms of your contract are being carried out.

• Did the job begin when your contractor said it would?
• Is it progressing on schedule?
• Are the roofing materials the brand you were guaranteed?
• Is the work being handled in an efficient, professional manner?
• Is the contractor available to answer questions or tend to your concerns?

In terms of energy efficiency, windows are one of the biggest contributors to heat loss from buildings. However, according to BuildingGreen.com, a new window technology being developed by Guardian Industries could allow for windows that can provide insulation values comparable to a standard insulated 2×4 stud wall, with a new double-pane glass and a vacuum between the panes.

A thermos keeps hot beverages hot and cold beverages cold by separating the contents from the outside world with a vacuum. Heat is conducted by three modes, conduction, convection, and radiation. A vacuum prevents conduction and convection, and a reflective coating serves to reflect radiated heat back where it came from. The Guardian VIG (vacuum-insulated glass) works the same way, with a vacuum between two panes of glass, and a low-E coating to prevent radiant heat from escaping.

Ordinary single-pane window glass is not much better than an open window when it comes to insulation value. Even a good quality double-pane window only has an R-value of 3 or 4, typically. A typical 2×4 stud wall has an R-value of 12 or better. Superinsulated houses with thick wall construction and very high R-values will often use triple glazing, and will minimize the size of the windows in order to keep the efficiency of the system as high as possible and reduce the amount of energy lost through the windows.

The new glass provides a vacuum space between two panes of glass. To keep the two sheets of glass from being drawn together by the vacuum, low thermal-conductivity spacers are placed in the space between the two panes. (These are the small dots that can be seen in the photograph.)

While the vacuum is only about 1/100th as strong as what is typically found in an ordinary thermos, it is still far better than standard double pane glass in preventing heat loss from conduction and from convection. The only other glazing systems I have come across with close to this level of insulation value have been nanogel-filled windows, but those are just translucent, and do not allow clear vision through the glass.

The manufacturer, Guardian Industries, is reportedly hoping to have this glass commercially available by the end of 2009. More importantly, while other researchers have been exploring the idea of vacuum glass for several years, Guardian is expecting to be able to produce this glass at a reasonable cost over conventional glass.

The head of the Building Technologies Division at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, was quoted as saying, “This performance level would convert most windows in heating climates into net energy suppliers, providing more energy to the home via passive solar gain (even facing north) than the window looses.”

Windows and Doors in Toronto

If you are going to make simple toilet repairs, you will need to know the parts of the toilet.  Here are words you need to know:

Ballcock: Water supply valve.

Float ball: The ball that rides on the surface of the water in the tank. When the tank is full, the float ball shuts off the    ballcock.

Flush valve: Connection that consists of the flapper and the flush valve seat.

Flush valve seat: Brass or plastic sealant ring located at the bottom of the tank.

Lift arm: Thin metal rod inside the tank that connects to the flush handle and raises the flapper valve.

Main drain: The slanting pipe in the basement or crawl space that carries wastes to a sewer or septic tank; also called building drain.

Main water valve: Located on the wall near the floor, this is a knob you twist to turn the water supply on and off.

Overflow pipe: Long, hollow tube, fastened to the bottom of the tank.

Flapper (also called stopper, tank-ball, seal or disk): Rubbery plug attached to the lift chain.

Tank: Large, oblong ceramic container located behind the toilet bowl.

Trap: Where waste water goes as it leaves the toilet bowl.

How a Toilet Works

To better understand how your toilet works, take the lid off of your tank and flush the toilet a few times. Here is what you will see:

* When you push the handle, the chain lifts the flapper valve (also called the stopper or tank ball).

* Water in the tank flows through the flush valve opening into the toilet bowl.

* The water from the tank forces waste water in the toilet bowl through the trap and into the main drain.

* Once the tank is empty, the flapper valve seals the tank and the ballcock refills it.

* When the tank is full, the float ball shuts off the ballcock.

The Toilet Handle Sticks or Is Loose

Remove the tank cover and clean the mounting nut (located on the inside behind the handle) so the handle operates smoothly.

If there is a buildup of lime around the mounting nut, clean it with a brush dipped in vinegar.

Check the chain that connects the lift arm to the flapper valve. There should be about half an inch of slack in the chain. You can adjust the slack by hooking the chain in a different hole in the handle or by removing links with needlenose pliers. If the chain is broken, it must be replaced.

The Toilet Won’t Flush at All
Check the handle, lift arm, chain, flapper valve and the connections between each of the parts to make sure all are functioning. The handle may be too loose or tight. The lift arm may be bent or broken. The connection between the lift arm and lift chain may be broken or out of adjustment, so it does not raise the flapper valve far enough.

The Toilet Won’t Flush Completely
You may need to remove excess slack in the lift chain.

The Toilet is Clogged or Overflows

You need a plunger.

Place the cup of the plunger over the drain opening and force the handle up and down rapidly. By doing so, you should produce enough suction to loosen the clog. When you believe you have removed the clog, slowly pour water into the bowl to flush debris.

If the plunger does not work, you need a closet auger or “snake,” designed especially for this task. Insert the auger into the drain. When you reach the blockage, try to thread the auger through the clog. After snagging the source of the clog, continue to twist the auger as you pull it from the trap.

If more than one toilet or drain in your home is backing up, the line is likely blocked downstream from the point where the waste lines come together. Long augers are available for these situations. If your main drain line contains no clean-out access, these long augers may need to be inserted directly through the toilet flange. This requires the temporary removal of the toilet. For information on removing and replacing a toilet, visit How to Replace a Toilet.

The Toilet Will not Stop Running

Here are some things to try if your toilet will not stop running:

* Start by jiggling the toilet handle. If the running stops, you need to either adjust the lift chain attachment or the handle.

* If that does not work, remove the tank cover and check to see if the float ball is touching the side of the tank. If it is, bend the arm to reposition the float ball away from the edge of the tank.

* Lift the float rod above the water level. If the water stops running, gently bend the rod down until the float is at rest when the water level is about one half inch below the top of the overflow pipe.

* Check to see if your float ball is leaking. If more than half of the float is underwater, it may have a leak. Turn off the shutoff valve below the tank and flush the toilet to empty it. Unscrew the float and shake it. If you hear water inside, replace the float ball.

* Sometimes the flapper valve becomes worn or distorted and does not seal the tank. This problem is easy to fix. Just empty the tank, remove the flapper and replace it with a new one.

* If the flapper valve seat is pitted or cracked, the whole unit can be replaced. Kits are available for this purpose, but they usually require that the tank be removed from the bowl. For this repair, follow the directions included with the flapper valve/seat replacement kit.

* If the toilet still runs, empty the tank again and remove the screws that hold the float rod and its attached linkage to the intake valve. Pull the intake valve plunger up and out of the plunger seat. You may need to pry it gently with a screwdriver to get it started. Replace the washer at the base of the plunger and the washer or packing that fits in the groove on the plunger body. As an alternative, entire ballcock assemblies are available in economical replacement kits. They come completely assembled and only need to be installed in the tank. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

There’s Water on the Floor Around the Toilet

If you have water on the floor around your toilet, fix the problem right away so moisture does not damage your subfloor.

Start by checking all connections - the tank bolts, the ballcock mounting nut and supply tube coupling nut. Is everything tight? If so, you may need to replace the washers.

If water is dripping from the tank during humid weather, that is probably just condensation. You can fix this problem by installing a toilet liner kit, a foam panel placed inside the tank. To install a liner, cut off the water, drain and clean the inside of the tank. Cut the panels to fit your toilet and attach them to the tank.

Is the toilet tank cracked? If so, you need to buy a new tank. In fact, unless your toilet is fairly new and direct replacement bowls are readily available, consider getting a whole new toilet. This will eliminate the potential problems associated with trying to find a tank that matches the old bowl. For more information on what is involved with this project, visit How to Replace a Toilet.

Water around the base of a toilet could be caused by a wax ring that no longer seals or by a cracked toilet base. If the toilet leaks constantly, the toilet base is cracked and must be replaced. If leaking occurs during or after a flush, replace the wax ring.

I Hear Splashing Water in the Tank

Adjust the refill line that runs into the overflow tube in the tank. You may need to replace the washers in the inlet valve.

My Toilet is Noisy

Replace the ballcock. It’s easier than it may sound. Replacement ballcocks are reasonably priced and can be installed simply by following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Toronto Plumbers - How to fix a Toilet

Good contractors are at a premium in Toronto so if you are preparing to invest some funds in updating your home? Here’s what you need to think about from your contractor’s point of view.

1- Define what you want. Start by making lists of what you like and don’t like in your home. Make sure that everyone who lives with you agrees with what’s on the lists. What activities do you do in each room? How do they relate to features you’d like to add? All this will help your contractors understand your goals.

2- Be an informed homeowner. Personal intrusion, noise, distractions, dust and inconveniences are often unavoidable but they can be managed if you prepare yourself and your family for the process of renovation. Make your home accessible to workers, and take time to understand their schedules. Some contractors may want to work from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., others from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Discuss this with them so that their schedule accommodates your lifestyle. Plan some dinners out and a few weekend getaways to give you a break from the craziness around your house.

3- Be a good communicator. You must completely understand what you are getting into before you purchase any products or start any work. This means always asking questions, studying drawings and confirming all details with your contractor. A calendar and message centre can help you, your children, the contractor and tradespeople know what is happening in the house on any given day. Being accessible during the day (via cellphone or a work number) can help your contractor make fast, smart decisions as issues arise.

4- Plan to spend more than you thought. On average, people spend 10 to 20 percent more on their renovations than originally planned. If you expect this at the outset, you’ll feel more at ease when you add a feature you forgot or indulge in a luxury or two.

5- Check about your contractor’s references. Most of us find contractors through recommendations. A good contractor pays attention to details, such as placing drop cloths and cleaning the site each day, is courteous of your time, follows up with your questions and bills on a regular basis. Does he or she have a cellphone or an email address?

6 Use a contract, and be specific. Is there a start and finish date to this project? Are there provisions for extended completion dates, payment schedules and material specifications? Who buys what and who does what? Upon signing, the contractor will probably ask for a deposit - typically 10 to 20 percent of the total job. If he or she insists on something higher, you should consider this a red flag. And it goes without saying that you’d be wise to avoid cash deals.

7 Keep a project log. Use a simple folder to keep track of products you have specified, dates of certain installations and what happens each day at the house. This will become your memory bank of the day-to-day goings-on at a chaotic work site.

8 Plan to visit showrooms alone and with your contractor. When you go on your own, you can dream, get ideas and be creative. When you take your contractor, reality will hit. The contractor can advise you on what will work in your home and the materials that he or she feels comfortable working with.

9 Be accessible during installation times. Confirm that the showrooms you have purchased from can have a contact available. You should also be accessible by phone during the installation dates of products you have chosen. Nothing is more stressful for a contractor than installing a bathtub only to find that a part is missing or wondering how high to hang your wall sconce.

10 Be open to new ideas and changes from your original plan. You may think everything is well thought out and planned but inevitably, changes will need to be made. A good contractor will offer solutions to small problems and use his or her experience from past jobs to recommend what works best.

Toronto Home Improvement

It’s time to repair and refresh. Here’s how.

Forget May flowers, for most homeowners around the GTA,  April showers bring rust, clogged rain gutters and all manner of sticky doors and windows. To help you solve these troubles, here are some sure-fire solutions to common spring problems. They’re easy enough to tackle in a weekend so you can spend more time smelling those flowers.

Rain Gutter Repairs

Nobody likes to clean or repair gutters. However, there are a few ways to make the job easier. First, for clogged downspouts, try using barbecue tongs to reach in and pull the leaves out. This doesn’t always work, but considering the alternative using a hose to flush the clog out, getting wet and covered with gutter goop its worth a try.

Second, to repair loose gutter nails try replacing them with extra-long lag screws. The lag screws tend to be stronger, hold better and can easily be installed with a cordless drill equipped with a nut driver bit.

Repairing Cracks in Concrete

Concrete always cracks, but that doesn’t mean you have to live with it that way. For most cracks less than 1/4″, applying concrete caulk is a good way to make repairs. Just clean the crack out with a high-pressure hose nozzle, let it dry and then apply the caulk into the crack.

For larger cracks, substitute concrete patch for caulk.

Large cracks or small, repair is necessary because water that finds its way into cracks will soften the ground underneath and cause more cracking. The situation worsens if the water freezes.

Sticky Windows and Doors

With all the wet weather that spring brings, wooden windows and doors can’t help but swell and stick. To repair a sticky door or window, first mark where it is sticking. Next, remove the door or window by taking out its hinge pins, prop it up securely and with a hand plane, carefully remove any excess material. Power planes will work, too, but there is a tendency to remove too much. When the wood shrinks back during the drier, warmer days of summer, the gap will be too wide.

For sliding windows, often the trim around them is the culprit and must be removed and reinstalled to allow for more movement. To do this, carefully remove the trim with a flat bar and pull the nails out backwards that is, grasp the nail point with pliers and pull. If the trim was installed properly with finishing nails, you should be able to do this without damaging the wood. When reinstalling, keep the fit snug but not as tight as it was. If you reinstall the trim too loosely, the windows will rattle when the wood shrinks again.

To keep windows and doors from sticking in the first place, make sure that they are sealed with a good coat of paint, including the tops and bottoms. But don’t paint the channels where windows need to slide. Instead, use a light coat of linseed oil as a sealer.

Painting Over Water Damage

The problem with water stains is that painting over them will not make them go away unless you use a primer-sealer first. When looking for a sealer, follow these basic guidelines: First, oil-based sealers usually work better than water-based. Second, choose a sealer that has a high amount of solids. Solids consist of pigments and other elements that do the actual covering of the stain. Paint, hardware and home centers carry primer-sealers (sometimes called sealer-primers) such as Kilz and Zinsser.

One other tip when using an oil-based sealer, consider using disposable brushes and rollers. Cleaning up after using oil-based products can be messy and often requires that you spend more on paint thinner than your brushes and rollers are worth.

Painting and Repairing Rusty Fixtures

It used to be that the only way to do a good paint job over rust was to get out the naval jelly or wire brush and remove the rust first. Thankfully, paint additives are now available to help paint stick to rust while also neutralizing the rust and stopping corrosion from continuing under the paint.

If left untreated, rust will eventually cause your fixtures to lock up. Prevent this by keeping fixtures well lubricated. One of the most common mistakes people make is trying to lubricate outdoor fixtures with light oil or silicon from spray cans. Because these oils are so light, they often evaporate and/or dilute existing lubrication thereby making the problem worse. For fixtures like gate hinges and latches, use heavy grease. It will not evaporate and its heavy viscosity is the best thing for heavy-duty parts. Most auto parts stores have heavy grease.

Toronto Home Improvement