Toronto Home Improvement

 

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Q: My roof is leaking. Does this mean I need a new one?

A:

Not necessarily. You may only need repair work. The best way to determine the problem is to call in a professional roofing company for an evaluation. They’ll advise you on the most viable and cost-effective course of action.

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Q: How do I spot potential trouble on my roof?
A:

Signs of problems are most likely in roofs that are fifteen years or older.

Look for:

• loose or missing shingles
• damaged flashing - pieces of metal or roll roofing wrapped around vent pipes, chimneys and adjoining walls to prevent water seepage and leakage
• buckling and curling - shingles that are bent up in the middle or turned up at the corners
• blistering and rotting - bubbles, caused by moisture in the shingle, appear on the surface of asphalt roofing

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Q: What should I do if I see these signs?
A:

These problems can usually be fixed without replacing the roof. The key is to find them early and have a qualified roofer deal with them immediately.

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Q: How do I find a contractor?
A:

Ask friends, family and neighbours for recommendations. Contact the Toronto Construction Association, The Greater Toronto Home Builders Association, Better Business Bureau, Scarborough Chamber of Commerce, Registry of Proffesional Contractors of Ontario, and BILD.

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Q: What questions should I ask before hiring a roofing contractor?
A:

You want to establish the contractor’s professionalism and high standards of quality.

• Does your contractor carry workman’s compensation, liability protection and insurance against damage to you or your neighbour’s property?
• How long has your contractor been in business?
• Does the company have a solid reputation for excellence?
• Will your contractor guarantee job satisfaction? Ask for references.
• Does your contractor use only first quality materials?
• Are your contractor’s staff trained, licensed roofing professionals?
• Will your contractor give you written warranties for labour and materials?
• Will your contractor stand behind the work after the project is completed?
• Can you reach your contractor 24 hours a day, 7 days a week?

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Q: What should I know when choosing shingles?

A:

There are three basic types of shingles.

• Asphalt Composition tiles are the most popular because they are relatively inexpensive and easy to install. Most home owners choose asphalt shingle, as its life expectancy is 20+ years.
• Premium asphalt shingles provide a more distinctive appearance and carry a longer manufacturer’s warranty. They come in many unique styles which are more attractive, but also more expensive, than the basic asphalt tile.
• Cedar shingles and shakes are listed in the Green Consumers Guide as being completely renewable. They are very attractive; however, their higher cost makes them a less popular choice.

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Q: Once the job starts, how can I monitor its progress?

A:

Check that the terms of your contract are being carried out.

• Did the job begin when your contractor said it would?
• Is it progressing on schedule?
• Are the roofing materials the brand you were guaranteed?
• Is the work being handled in an efficient, professional manner?
• Is the contractor available to answer questions or tend to your concerns?

In terms of energy efficiency, windows are one of the biggest contributors to heat loss from buildings. However, according to BuildingGreen.com, a new window technology being developed by Guardian Industries could allow for windows that can provide insulation values comparable to a standard insulated 2×4 stud wall, with a new double-pane glass and a vacuum between the panes.

A thermos keeps hot beverages hot and cold beverages cold by separating the contents from the outside world with a vacuum. Heat is conducted by three modes, conduction, convection, and radiation. A vacuum prevents conduction and convection, and a reflective coating serves to reflect radiated heat back where it came from. The Guardian VIG (vacuum-insulated glass) works the same way, with a vacuum between two panes of glass, and a low-E coating to prevent radiant heat from escaping.

Ordinary single-pane window glass is not much better than an open window when it comes to insulation value. Even a good quality double-pane window only has an R-value of 3 or 4, typically. A typical 2×4 stud wall has an R-value of 12 or better. Superinsulated houses with thick wall construction and very high R-values will often use triple glazing, and will minimize the size of the windows in order to keep the efficiency of the system as high as possible and reduce the amount of energy lost through the windows.

The new glass provides a vacuum space between two panes of glass. To keep the two sheets of glass from being drawn together by the vacuum, low thermal-conductivity spacers are placed in the space between the two panes. (These are the small dots that can be seen in the photograph.)

While the vacuum is only about 1/100th as strong as what is typically found in an ordinary thermos, it is still far better than standard double pane glass in preventing heat loss from conduction and from convection. The only other glazing systems I have come across with close to this level of insulation value have been nanogel-filled windows, but those are just translucent, and do not allow clear vision through the glass.

The manufacturer, Guardian Industries, is reportedly hoping to have this glass commercially available by the end of 2009. More importantly, while other researchers have been exploring the idea of vacuum glass for several years, Guardian is expecting to be able to produce this glass at a reasonable cost over conventional glass.

The head of the Building Technologies Division at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, was quoted as saying, “This performance level would convert most windows in heating climates into net energy suppliers, providing more energy to the home via passive solar gain (even facing north) than the window looses.”

Windows and Doors in Toronto

If you are going to make simple toilet repairs, you will need to know the parts of the toilet.  Here are words you need to know:

Ballcock: Water supply valve.

Float ball: The ball that rides on the surface of the water in the tank. When the tank is full, the float ball shuts off the    ballcock.

Flush valve: Connection that consists of the flapper and the flush valve seat.

Flush valve seat: Brass or plastic sealant ring located at the bottom of the tank.

Lift arm: Thin metal rod inside the tank that connects to the flush handle and raises the flapper valve.

Main drain: The slanting pipe in the basement or crawl space that carries wastes to a sewer or septic tank; also called building drain.

Main water valve: Located on the wall near the floor, this is a knob you twist to turn the water supply on and off.

Overflow pipe: Long, hollow tube, fastened to the bottom of the tank.

Flapper (also called stopper, tank-ball, seal or disk): Rubbery plug attached to the lift chain.

Tank: Large, oblong ceramic container located behind the toilet bowl.

Trap: Where waste water goes as it leaves the toilet bowl.

How a Toilet Works

To better understand how your toilet works, take the lid off of your tank and flush the toilet a few times. Here is what you will see:

* When you push the handle, the chain lifts the flapper valve (also called the stopper or tank ball).

* Water in the tank flows through the flush valve opening into the toilet bowl.

* The water from the tank forces waste water in the toilet bowl through the trap and into the main drain.

* Once the tank is empty, the flapper valve seals the tank and the ballcock refills it.

* When the tank is full, the float ball shuts off the ballcock.

The Toilet Handle Sticks or Is Loose

Remove the tank cover and clean the mounting nut (located on the inside behind the handle) so the handle operates smoothly.

If there is a buildup of lime around the mounting nut, clean it with a brush dipped in vinegar.

Check the chain that connects the lift arm to the flapper valve. There should be about half an inch of slack in the chain. You can adjust the slack by hooking the chain in a different hole in the handle or by removing links with needlenose pliers. If the chain is broken, it must be replaced.

The Toilet Won’t Flush at All
Check the handle, lift arm, chain, flapper valve and the connections between each of the parts to make sure all are functioning. The handle may be too loose or tight. The lift arm may be bent or broken. The connection between the lift arm and lift chain may be broken or out of adjustment, so it does not raise the flapper valve far enough.

The Toilet Won’t Flush Completely
You may need to remove excess slack in the lift chain.

The Toilet is Clogged or Overflows

You need a plunger.

Place the cup of the plunger over the drain opening and force the handle up and down rapidly. By doing so, you should produce enough suction to loosen the clog. When you believe you have removed the clog, slowly pour water into the bowl to flush debris.

If the plunger does not work, you need a closet auger or “snake,” designed especially for this task. Insert the auger into the drain. When you reach the blockage, try to thread the auger through the clog. After snagging the source of the clog, continue to twist the auger as you pull it from the trap.

If more than one toilet or drain in your home is backing up, the line is likely blocked downstream from the point where the waste lines come together. Long augers are available for these situations. If your main drain line contains no clean-out access, these long augers may need to be inserted directly through the toilet flange. This requires the temporary removal of the toilet. For information on removing and replacing a toilet, visit How to Replace a Toilet.

The Toilet Will not Stop Running

Here are some things to try if your toilet will not stop running:

* Start by jiggling the toilet handle. If the running stops, you need to either adjust the lift chain attachment or the handle.

* If that does not work, remove the tank cover and check to see if the float ball is touching the side of the tank. If it is, bend the arm to reposition the float ball away from the edge of the tank.

* Lift the float rod above the water level. If the water stops running, gently bend the rod down until the float is at rest when the water level is about one half inch below the top of the overflow pipe.

* Check to see if your float ball is leaking. If more than half of the float is underwater, it may have a leak. Turn off the shutoff valve below the tank and flush the toilet to empty it. Unscrew the float and shake it. If you hear water inside, replace the float ball.

* Sometimes the flapper valve becomes worn or distorted and does not seal the tank. This problem is easy to fix. Just empty the tank, remove the flapper and replace it with a new one.

* If the flapper valve seat is pitted or cracked, the whole unit can be replaced. Kits are available for this purpose, but they usually require that the tank be removed from the bowl. For this repair, follow the directions included with the flapper valve/seat replacement kit.

* If the toilet still runs, empty the tank again and remove the screws that hold the float rod and its attached linkage to the intake valve. Pull the intake valve plunger up and out of the plunger seat. You may need to pry it gently with a screwdriver to get it started. Replace the washer at the base of the plunger and the washer or packing that fits in the groove on the plunger body. As an alternative, entire ballcock assemblies are available in economical replacement kits. They come completely assembled and only need to be installed in the tank. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

There’s Water on the Floor Around the Toilet

If you have water on the floor around your toilet, fix the problem right away so moisture does not damage your subfloor.

Start by checking all connections - the tank bolts, the ballcock mounting nut and supply tube coupling nut. Is everything tight? If so, you may need to replace the washers.

If water is dripping from the tank during humid weather, that is probably just condensation. You can fix this problem by installing a toilet liner kit, a foam panel placed inside the tank. To install a liner, cut off the water, drain and clean the inside of the tank. Cut the panels to fit your toilet and attach them to the tank.

Is the toilet tank cracked? If so, you need to buy a new tank. In fact, unless your toilet is fairly new and direct replacement bowls are readily available, consider getting a whole new toilet. This will eliminate the potential problems associated with trying to find a tank that matches the old bowl. For more information on what is involved with this project, visit How to Replace a Toilet.

Water around the base of a toilet could be caused by a wax ring that no longer seals or by a cracked toilet base. If the toilet leaks constantly, the toilet base is cracked and must be replaced. If leaking occurs during or after a flush, replace the wax ring.

I Hear Splashing Water in the Tank

Adjust the refill line that runs into the overflow tube in the tank. You may need to replace the washers in the inlet valve.

My Toilet is Noisy

Replace the ballcock. It’s easier than it may sound. Replacement ballcocks are reasonably priced and can be installed simply by following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Toronto Plumbers - How to fix a Toilet

 

Good contractors are at a premium in Toronto so if you are preparing to invest some funds in updating your home? Here’s what you need to think about from your contractor’s point of view.

1- Define what you want. Start by making lists of what you like and don’t like in your home. Make sure that everyone who lives with you agrees with what’s on the lists. What activities do you do in each room? How do they relate to features you’d like to add? All this will help your contractors understand your goals.

2- Be an informed homeowner. Personal intrusion, noise, distractions, dust and inconveniences are often unavoidable but they can be managed if you prepare yourself and your family for the process of renovation. Make your home accessible to workers, and take time to understand their schedules. Some contractors may want to work from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., others from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Discuss this with them so that their schedule accommodates your lifestyle. Plan some dinners out and a few weekend getaways to give you a break from the craziness around your house.

3- Be a good communicator. You must completely understand what you are getting into before you purchase any products or start any work. This means always asking questions, studying drawings and confirming all details with your contractor. A calendar and message centre can help you, your children, the contractor and tradespeople know what is happening in the house on any given day. Being accessible during the day (via cellphone or a work number) can help your contractor make fast, smart decisions as issues arise.

4- Plan to spend more than you thought. On average, people spend 10 to 20 percent more on their renovations than originally planned. If you expect this at the outset, you’ll feel more at ease when you add a feature you forgot or indulge in a luxury or two.

5- Check about your contractor’s references. Most of us find contractors through recommendations. A good contractor pays attention to details, such as placing drop cloths and cleaning the site each day, is courteous of your time, follows up with your questions and bills on a regular basis. Does he or she have a cellphone or an email address?

6 Use a contract, and be specific. Is there a start and finish date to this project? Are there provisions for extended completion dates, payment schedules and material specifications? Who buys what and who does what? Upon signing, the contractor will probably ask for a deposit - typically 10 to 20 percent of the total job. If he or she insists on something higher, you should consider this a red flag. And it goes without saying that you’d be wise to avoid cash deals.

7 Keep a project log. Use a simple folder to keep track of products you have specified, dates of certain installations and what happens each day at the house. This will become your memory bank of the day-to-day goings-on at a chaotic work site.

8 Plan to visit showrooms alone and with your contractor. When you go on your own, you can dream, get ideas and be creative. When you take your contractor, reality will hit. The contractor can advise you on what will work in your home and the materials that he or she feels comfortable working with.

9 Be accessible during installation times. Confirm that the showrooms you have purchased from can have a contact available. You should also be accessible by phone during the installation dates of products you have chosen. Nothing is more stressful for a contractor than installing a bathtub only to find that a part is missing or wondering how high to hang your wall sconce.

10 Be open to new ideas and changes from your original plan. You may think everything is well thought out and planned but inevitably, changes will need to be made. A good contractor will offer solutions to small problems and use his or her experience from past jobs to recommend what works best.

Toronto Home Improvement

 

It’s time to repair and refresh. Here’s how.

Forget May flowers, for most homeowners around the GTA,  April showers bring rust, clogged rain gutters and all manner of sticky doors and windows. To help you solve these troubles, here are some sure-fire solutions to common spring problems. They’re easy enough to tackle in a weekend so you can spend more time smelling those flowers.

Rain Gutter Repairs

Nobody likes to clean or repair gutters. However, there are a few ways to make the job easier. First, for clogged downspouts, try using barbecue tongs to reach in and pull the leaves out. This doesn’t always work, but considering the alternative using a hose to flush the clog out, getting wet and covered with gutter goop its worth a try.

Second, to repair loose gutter nails try replacing them with extra-long lag screws. The lag screws tend to be stronger, hold better and can easily be installed with a cordless drill equipped with a nut driver bit.

Repairing Cracks in Concrete

Concrete always cracks, but that doesn’t mean you have to live with it that way. For most cracks less than 1/4″, applying concrete caulk is a good way to make repairs. Just clean the crack out with a high-pressure hose nozzle, let it dry and then apply the caulk into the crack.

For larger cracks, substitute concrete patch for caulk.

Large cracks or small, repair is necessary because water that finds its way into cracks will soften the ground underneath and cause more cracking. The situation worsens if the water freezes.

Sticky Windows and Doors

With all the wet weather that spring brings, wooden windows and doors can’t help but swell and stick. To repair a sticky door or window, first mark where it is sticking. Next, remove the door or window by taking out its hinge pins, prop it up securely and with a hand plane, carefully remove any excess material. Power planes will work, too, but there is a tendency to remove too much. When the wood shrinks back during the drier, warmer days of summer, the gap will be too wide.

For sliding windows, often the trim around them is the culprit and must be removed and reinstalled to allow for more movement. To do this, carefully remove the trim with a flat bar and pull the nails out backwards that is, grasp the nail point with pliers and pull. If the trim was installed properly with finishing nails, you should be able to do this without damaging the wood. When reinstalling, keep the fit snug but not as tight as it was. If you reinstall the trim too loosely, the windows will rattle when the wood shrinks again.

To keep windows and doors from sticking in the first place, make sure that they are sealed with a good coat of paint, including the tops and bottoms. But don’t paint the channels where windows need to slide. Instead, use a light coat of linseed oil as a sealer.

Painting Over Water Damage

The problem with water stains is that painting over them will not make them go away unless you use a primer-sealer first. When looking for a sealer, follow these basic guidelines: First, oil-based sealers usually work better than water-based. Second, choose a sealer that has a high amount of solids. Solids consist of pigments and other elements that do the actual covering of the stain. Paint, hardware and home centers carry primer-sealers (sometimes called sealer-primers) such as Kilz and Zinsser.

One other tip when using an oil-based sealer, consider using disposable brushes and rollers. Cleaning up after using oil-based products can be messy and often requires that you spend more on paint thinner than your brushes and rollers are worth.

Painting and Repairing Rusty Fixtures

It used to be that the only way to do a good paint job over rust was to get out the naval jelly or wire brush and remove the rust first. Thankfully, paint additives are now available to help paint stick to rust while also neutralizing the rust and stopping corrosion from continuing under the paint.

If left untreated, rust will eventually cause your fixtures to lock up. Prevent this by keeping fixtures well lubricated. One of the most common mistakes people make is trying to lubricate outdoor fixtures with light oil or silicon from spray cans. Because these oils are so light, they often evaporate and/or dilute existing lubrication thereby making the problem worse. For fixtures like gate hinges and latches, use heavy grease. It will not evaporate and its heavy viscosity is the best thing for heavy-duty parts. Most auto parts stores have heavy grease.

Toronto Home Improvement

 

Every May, cottagers head back up north to their favourite lakeside retreats, filled with the anticipation of peace, serenity and the cry of the loon. But before they can enjoy any of these things, many face a frustrating, psychological ordeal: trial by water pipe. Will it be you? It may. Let me prepare you to prevail.

Somewhere deep within hundreds of cottages across the province, a little bit of water remained hidden in copper pipes after everyone thought the system was drained back in October. This water froze during, expanded and the subsequent burst pipe lies in wait for smiling, unsuspecting cottagers. This sinister condition sits ready to make itself known with a cascading fountain of despair as the pump pressures up again, wetting everything in sight.

My wife tells me that in the midst of life’s trials, what women really want is empathy, not solutions. I’m not so sure this applies to burst water pipes, though. When you’re 50 miles from the nearest plumber, with a bunch of cranky kids lined up waiting to use a bone-dry toilet, a solution is what we all want. Desperately. And to make that happen you need a little bit of know-how, some simple materials and a few tools and supplies. One new item, in particular, might even prevent you from burning your cottage down while you complete the repair.

Fixing a burst copper water pipe involves three steps: cutting out the bad section, preparing a piece of replacement pipe and couplings, then soldering these parts into the system. You’ll need about $20 worth of tools to make it all happen, and the first item is something called a pipe cutter, though not the usual sort.

Existing pipes are almost always located close to framing members and other building features, and this means there’s rarely room to swing a regular pipe cutter. That’s why your cottage plumbing repair kit should contain what’s called a ‘mini-cutter’. It uses a hardened steel wheel to score the pipe (just like a regular cutter does), but the cutter itself is very small. It needs less than an inch of clearance around the pipe to work. Clamp it on the copper, spin it around while continuing to tighten the pressure knob, and in less than a minute the pipe is cut.

With the bad section removed, it’s time to prepare fresh replacement pipe. Make it a little shorter than the piece you removed so you can slip it into place with couplings on each end. Even the smallest cottage-country hardware store carries the parts you need, though you really should keep a supply on hand. Remember, the kids can only hold it for so long.

Soldering is one of those jobs that seem more challenging than it really is. Success is virtually guaranteed as long as you do three simple things: clean all joint surfaces with sandpaper until they shine, apply a coat of plumber’s flux to the joints before assembly, then heat the pipe with a propane torch until the metal itself is hot enough to melt the solder as it’s touched to the surface.

All of this is simple and risk-free, except for that business with the torch. With tinder-dry wooden framing members and building parts typically located very close to pipes, the risk of fire is real. And this is where something called Cold Coat can help. It’s a spray-on gel that forms a temporary, protective coating around joists, wires, plastic drainpipes and subfloors. I’ve used it, and this stuff has to be seen to be appreciated. In fact, it makes it almost impossible to accidentally ignite wood with a torch. A bottle costs $10 at Home Depot and Home Hardware.

While it’s true that some of the sweetest sounds in cottage country are the cry of the loon or the laughter of kids as they jump of the dock. But before you can enjoy any of these, you need to hear something else first. Perhaps the best thing of all is the sound of the pressure switch as it shuts off the motor when the water tank gauge reads a nice, steady 40-psi. Okay kids, the bathroom’s all yours!

Home Improvement Toronto

 

Its spring cleaning time when tidiness at home takes on a major priority, and you can remove your junk with the help of a junk removal company in Toronto. However, you may be quite unsure when is the best time to have your junk removed. It is really not a good idea to call a junk removal company when you have too little junk, but you should also bear in mind that an increase in the amount of junk will cost you higher removal fees. So, it is really necessary to determine a budget before you decide to have your junk removed. Selection of a good junk removal agency is also essential as rates of these agencies may differ substantially.

What are the things you can call a junk removal company to remove?

While deciding how much junk you should have before calling a junk removal agency, it is wise to find out the types of things that junk removal companies pick up and also the things that they don’t. Most junk removal companies do not pick up commercial and hazardous waste. The main types of waste that junk removal agencies pick up are as mentioned below:

Paint, Pesticides, Insecticides, Paint thinners and Strippers, Tires, Batteries, Antifreeze, Motor Oil, Oil Filters, Propane Tanks, Florescent Lights, Solvents, Fertilizers, Pool Chemicals, Oven and Drain Cleaners, Furniture and Metal Polish, Electronics, Monitors and Others.

When is the right time to call a junk removal company?

Cleaning the entire home in a day can be hectic and troublesome, so instead of removing a large amount of junk, it is best to remove it slowly. On the other hand, the cost of junk removal depends on the amount of junk you want to dispose. Therefore, it is indeed essential that you know exactly how much junk to remove at a time.

Usually, the charges for commercial junk and domestic junk removals can vary. If you live in a small house, it is wise to get junk removal service when you have a small amount of junk, as this is more affordable. There are different online space calculators which can be used to determine the right amount of junk to dispose. With these calculators, you will know exactly how much junk you should dispose to get the best possible rates.

Getting the best prices for junk removal

You may have doubts when it comes to the prices of junk removal services. There may be several different types of junk removal charges. For less junk, the junk removal service providers will typically charge lower rates. In case you have a lot of junk to remove, you may have to pay maximum charges. The exact charges can be determined by calling the junk removal service providers. After you are sure of the prices, then you can decide the amount of the junk you want to dispose. It is also important that you find out the prices and quality of services of different companies to ensure that you have the best deal possible.

The pricing for junk removal can also vary depending on the locality you are in. Some junk removal companies will provide the rates of their junk removal services according to zip codes. Special discounts are also available for those who take advantage of online junk removal booking facilities.

Calling the junk removal companies in the Greater Toronto Area

Junk removal service providers usually have toll free customer care helplines, and you can find the information you need by dialing these numbers. You can also call the customer care executives of different companies to have a better idea of the junk removal services offered by them. It is also a good idea to write e-mails to these companies as most of them will respond to your inquiry promptly.

 

Cosmetic fixes that can put a prettier face on a plain-Jane home will pay for themselves - and then some.

Just as every mother believes her son is a handsome devil, we homeowners tend to see the best in our houses - or at least we become comfortably familiar with the way they look.

But let’s face it, to the objective eye, not every man is George Clooney and not every house is a Frank Lloyd Wright masterpiece. There are a lot of drab, even downright gloomy facades out there - especially among homes built after World War II, when many builders abandoned traditional architectural styling to streamline costs and mass-produce housing.

Thankfully, the cosmetic surgery required to put a beautiful face on your home won’t hurt a bit. It doesn’t even require a big-ticket construction job. “Creating curb appeal isn’t about trying to transform the house from, say, a plain-Jane ranch into a grand Victorian,” says Charlotte, Vt. architect Ted Montgomery. “Just changing one or two little details is all it takes.”

You can find your inspiration by looking at similar houses in the neighborhood - or by hiring an architect to offer suggestions ($300 to $500) and maybe sketch a plan (add $300 to $500). You’ll boost your home pride, endear yourself to the neighbors and generate a lot more interest from buyers someday when your house goes on the market.

Subtract Flaws

Assuming the house and yard are already well maintained, job one is to get rid of unsightly blemishes left by a penny-pinching builder or the misguided remodeling efforts of previous owners.

Replace the garage doors. The most prominent facial feature of many homes is a pair of big garage doors - which all too often are flat, lackluster slabs of steel or vinyl. Trade them for more visually appealing doors with moldings, windows or an old-fashioned carriage-house look ($2,000 to $5,000 a door, including labor). See designerdoors.com and clopaydoor.com for examples.

Remove siding. Sometimes ugliness is only skin-deep. “Peek under dreary aluminum, vinyl or asbestos siding and you may find well-preserved wood clapboards hiding underneath,” says Asheville, N.C. architect Jane Mathews. If so, remove the siding, repair the old wood and give the house an attractive paint job ($10,000 to $20,000). If not, you could paint the siding or replace it with fiber cement siding (see image), a no-maintenance product that looks like real wood ($15,000 to $25,000).

Lose the funky railings. Swap out bad porch or stoop railings - such as black iron bars and chunky pressure-treated decking components - for visually interesting banisters and spindles that are worthy of their prominent placement at the front of the house ($1,000 to $3,000).

Add Character

Like a dimple or a cleft chin, the addition of an interesting architectural element can give your house some distinctiveness.

Install a salvaged door. The typical postwar front door is decidedly dull, but the entry should be the focal point of your house, says Corvallis, Ore. architect Lori Stephens. For interesting replacements, troll an architectural salvage yard (the directory at buildingreuse.org can help you locate one). Consider a recycled mission-style oak door, a six-panel colonial with blown-glass windows, or arch-top French doors ($200 to $800; more if you’re converting to an arch top).

Add moldings. Many newer homes lack exterior trim; the siding just butts up against the windows and doors. A contractor can give the house a more sophisticated, traditional look by cutting back that siding and slipping in wide, flat moldings around the openings and possibly at the corners of the house and between its stories ($3,000 to $4,000). Consider using a synthetic product like cellular PVC for your moldings, which looks like wood but will never rot.

Enhance the roof. A straight, un-adorned roofline makes a house look about as interesting as a shipping container. So consider adding one or more windowed dormers (gabled peaks) or extending the eaves (the roof overhang) a few feet beyond the front of the house with detailed moldings on the under-side ($2,500 to $6,000 per dormer or eave extension). This is major surgery though; do not attempt it without first getting an architect’s input.

Multiply the Effect

Invasive procedures aren’t always necessary. Just adding the right accents can transform your home’s outer look - not unlike a pair of stylish new specs or a good haircut.

Replace light fixtures and hardware. Lose generic shiny brass or black house numbers, mailbox and porch lights (especially bare-bulb fixtures) and substitute something unique and substantial, perhaps made of antiqued copper, bronze or brushed nickel ($20 to $75 each). For ideas, see rejuvenation.com and restorationhardware.com.

Plan for a nonstop flower show. Most of the flowers in your yard probably bloom in the late spring, which makes for a beautiful May - or whenever the big show happens in your climate - but leaves you with a bland yard for the other 10 or 11 months of the year. A local nursery can help you choose and plant additional bulbs, shrubs and trees with different bloom times (as well as plants with colorful autumn foliage and winter berries), so there’ll always be something performing in the yard ($50 to $250 a shrub, $500 to $1,500 a tree).

Add color. A paint job ($2,000 to $10,000) in pleasing hues can make any structure appealing. “But don’t choose a bright, high-contrast color scheme - that only exaggerates a house’s flaws,” Montgomery warns.

For subtler suggestions, check out the book “House Colors” by Susan Hershman ($23 at Amazon.com) or go for the colors of nature - muted greens, deep reds or pale yellows - and keep the body and trim close in color. That will give your home a friendly, peaceful look rather than making it say, “Hey, look at me.” Sort of like an average-looking guy choosing a simple charcoal suit instead of a flashy powder blue one that only a Hollywood star could pull off.

Thanks to CNNMoney. All Rights Reserved. Toronto Home Improvement

There are many beautiful stone products available in the greater Toronto area - GTA - market. The design aesthetic is arguably the most important factor in choosing your stone, however, a number of other factors should be considered. Among these are, how the surface will be used, the colour, age, and architecture of your home, your project budget, and the level of maintenance that is acceptable.

Local limestone, such as Owen Sound or Credit Valley, either in dimensional or flag stone, is the most popular choice, but, by no means the only one. Granite, either native or imported, is very effective, used in cobbles for a more established old country look, or in flamed slabs for a more polished finish, perhaps for a French garden.

Porphyry is a natural stone we like very much for its unique warm reds, browns and grays. Porphyry is imported from Mexico, but is also available from Italy and Brazil in slightly different colouration. Porphyry has some very ancient and famous applications, including the floor of Solomon’s temple.

New York Bluestone

For more contemporary gardens, the concrete like appearance of Indiana Limestone is very effective, while New England Fieldstone and New York Bluestone provide a more rugged and colourful appearance suitable to country estates.

Many sandstones are also available. Sandstone is generally solid coloured and is a softer stone, less workable but highly satisfactory in many applications, at a slightly lower cost.

Indiana Limestone

If cost is a priority, there are numerous very good quality engineered stone products. Many of these provide a very attractive finish, particularly in combination with natural stone. For driveway and other heavy wear applications, these unit paver’s are better than natural stone.

Porphyry

Whatever combinations of stone products you choose, the application process will play a very large part in determining the attractiveness and durability of the finished hardscape. A highly skilled and experienced mason is worthy of his hire.

Toronto Landscaper

Unless Ty Pennington and the crew from “Extreme Makeover: Home Edition” take on your renovation project, you’re likely to get weak-kneed looking at the estimate for the work or learning the terms of your home improvement loan.

If high prices, tough credit or falling home values have suddenly brought your fantasy makeover plans back to reality, the good news is that it’s often the more modest upgrades — not the grand additions — that offer the best return on your investment.

Another plus is that the sluggish remodeling market might make it easier to find available contractors and get their assistance with financing your project, even if they offer little wiggle room on the bill. Carol Friedhoff, a Certified Financial Planner in Dublin, Ohio, notes: “A lot of the builders are having to make extra concessions, trying to come up with creative financing.”

The February 2008 Leading Indicator for Remodeling Activity report from the Joint Center for Housing Studies at Harvard University projects that homeowner spending for home improvements will continue to decline, slipping at an annual rate of 2.6 percent through the third quarter of 2008.

“Contractors are much hungrier for the business now, much more responsive and more willing to negotiate on scheduling and things like that,” says Kermit Baker, director of the Remodeling Futures Program at the Joint Center for Housing Studies.

“I’m guessing there will be some negotiating on pricing, too, but their labor costs have probably not gone down and their material costs have by and large gone up.”

In other words, don’t expect a big break on the price, but do look for more accommodation in other areas such as financing.

Homeowners are taking their time deciding whether to remodel, says Michael S. Hydeck, president of Hydeck & MacKay Builders Inc. in Pennsylvania and treasurer for the National Association of the Remodeling Industry. “The backup for projects and jobs is a lot smaller than it was a year or two years ago,” Hydeck says. “Most people are thinking and waiting.”

Waiting might not be such a bad thing, according to Friedhoff, if it means you can save enough money to pay cash for your project instead of having to borrow. “There’s a lot less risk, and you don’t have the possibility of owing more than the house is worth,” she says.

If you’re still mulling over your renovation options, here are six projects that can bring you a good value for your money.

1. Replace Your Siding

Exterior siding topped the list in Remodeling magazine’s 2007 Cost vs. Value report, which compared the construction costs of various projects to estimates of their resale value by members of the National Association of Realtors. Fiber-cement siding replacement came in at No. 1, with an estimated 88.1 percent of the cost recouped, while vinyl siding replacement had the third highest recoupment value at 83.2 percent.

Introduced nearly 100 years ago, fiber-cement siding is back in vogue, with cellulose replacing the asbestos of long-ago versions. The new and improved product is weather-resistant and extremely durable, says Tim Carter, a syndicated columnist who dispenses home improvement advice on his Web site askthebuilder.com.

And here’s an advantage over both wood and vinyl siding: “If you do it right, it really holds paint well,” Carter says. “The paint job can last 20 years.”

2. Build a Deck

Realtors in the Cost vs. Value survey estimated the average homeowner would recover 85.4 percent of the cost of a new wood deck from resale, giving this project the second highest value in the report. A composite deck addition — a costlier initial investment — was estimated to bring a 77.6 percent return.

Adding a deck is a relatively inexpensive way to gain more living space. “You can probably build a deck for $20 a square foot, labor and material,” Carter says. “If you were going to put a room on your house, you’re probably looking at $150 a square foot.”

3. Spice Up the Kitchen

A minor kitchen renovation ranked fourth in the survey, but in the eyes of Grand Rapids, Mich., Realtor, and immediate past president of the National Association of Realtors, Pat V. Combs, this is the project that “brings the best value for the buck.”

Rolling on a new paint color, installing new countertops and putting on new cabinet and drawer handles are three ideas that only take a little out of your pocket but make a big impact, she says.

But if you have your heart set on a total kitchen overhaul at some point, remodeler Hydeck warns it’s probably not wise to sink too much money into piecemeal fix-ups in the meantime.

4. Install Energy-Efficient Windows

Combs is not surprised that wood and vinyl window replacements were each given about an 80 percent recoupment value in the Remodeling survey.

“People are very energy-conscious right now,” she says. “The cost of heating and cooling a home is important. It’s not just the purchase price (that homebuyers consider), it’s the cost per month to live in the home.”

To make sure your new windows are of the best quality, Carter says you should look for the certification label of the American Architectural Manufacturers Association. For energy efficiency, the Energy Star label of the National Fenestration Rating Council is the gold standard.

Don’t expect a quick return on your investment if you buy replacement windows, which can run upward of $10,000 for the whole house. If lowering your utility bills is your goal, it’s important to understand that it can take years for the savings to cover the cost of the windows.

5. Give the Bathroom a Facelift

Fixing up the bathroom, whether it’s an upgrade or simply for maintenance, is another reliable investment. “People like to pamper themselves, and they just don’t want to be in a grungy bathroom,” Carter says.

A midrange bathroom remodel has an estimated 78 percent resale value, according to the Cost vs. Value report.

6. Crown Your Walls

Crown molding is near the top of Carter’s personal list of easy, inexpensive upgrades with big impacts.

“It just really dresses up a room,” says Carter, who estimates that a do-it-yourselfer could outfit a room for less than $100.

“The best analogy I can give is that it’s like putting a tie on. When you wear a tie, it’s just a simple linear thing that dangles from your neck, but it’s very distinctive. Crown molding does the same thing to a room.”

Location, Location, Location

The value of any renovation project you choose depends a great deal on where you live and whether your home is in an entry-level or upscale market.

“Just like all real estate is local, all of these various upgrade projects are localized,” Combs says.